Hot cross buns, associated with Good Friday for centuries, have a storied history. Some trace the spiced sweet rolls back to spring festivals in pagan Britain, when the cross atop the buns represented the four seasons of the year; others believe an Anglican monk in 12th century Britain began adorning his small breads with crosses to honor Good Friday, also known as the Day of the Cross; and another tale describes an English widow who baked cross-topped buns every Good Friday and vowed to have one hanging on her front door until her son, on a journey at sea, returned home. Perhaps the popularity of hot cross buns, however, stems particularly from an old superstition. In 17th century Britain, many believed that if the buns were made on Good Friday itself, the baker, and everyone eating his festive baked goodies, would be protected from misfortune for the rest of the year. This weekend, wake to the smell of freshly baked cinnamon-spiced hot cross buns. Prepare the dough a day in advance and store in the refrigerator overnight, where the buns will slowly rise. Treat your family, friends and yourself to these warm, delectable hot cross buns, and begin celebrating the Easter weekend with this ancient tradition.
Overnight Hot Cross Buns Yield = 16
½ cup milk 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon instant yeast ½ cup whole wheat flour
1 stick butter, room temperature 1 cup milk 1/3 cup brown sugar 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 teaspoon cinnamon freshly grated nutmeg to taste 3½ cups all-purpose flour ¼ – ½ cup raisins (optional)
1 egg 2 teaspoons milk
1½ cups confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons milk
To make the sponge, place milk in microwave on high for 30 seconds. Add sugar, yeast and flour. Stir and let sit 15 minutes until bubbly. In separate bowl, whisk butter until fluffy and smooth. Add milk, brown sugar, eggs, cinnamon and nutmeg, and whisk until smooth. Add the sponge and stir until smooth. Add flour and stir until stiff dough forms. Turn dough out onto work surface and knead for 4 minutes, adding only enough flour to prevent dough from sticking to surface. At this point, if you wish to add raisins, divide the dough into two equal portions. Flatten one of the portions and sprinkle _ cup raisins over it. Fold dough to enclose the raisins, then knead for 4 more minutes until raisins are evenly dispersed. (Note: If you wish to add raisins to all of the dough, add ½ cup raisins to whole ball — do not divide the dough — and knead for a total of 8 minutes.) Place dough in greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 hour or until almost doubled in bulk. Knead remaining portion of dough and place in separate greased bowl also covered with plastic wrap.
Grease two 8-inch square or round baking pans with butter. Punch one of the dough balls down, and turn out onto floured work surface. Roll ball into a 12-inch log. Divide into 8 equal portions and shape each into a ball. Place balls in pan, evenly spaced. Repeat with remaining dough ball. Cover each pan with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to rise overnight. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Remove pans from refrigerator and with a very sharp knife or razor blade, make a cross through each bun. Beat egg with the two teaspoons of milk, brush buns with the mixture, place in the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the confectioners’ sugar with milk to make the glaze. Let buns cool five minutes before drizzling glaze overtop. After the buns are topped with glaze, serve immediately. Note: the glaze is optional — they are delicious spread with softened butter as well.
Of all the symbolic foods on the Passover Seder table, matzoh is the most important. Made without yeast and quickly baked, matzoh reminds Seder participants of the Jews fleeing Egypt who had no time to leaven their bread or bake it properly. Flour used to make matzoh is made from wheat that is “watched” from the moment of harvesting to ensure it never contacts any water, which might cause the flour to expand and rise.
As leavened flour is prohibited during Passover, flourless chocolate cakes are popular Passover desserts. This rich chocolate cake rises dramatically, cracks and then falls. When dusted with Passover “confectioners’ sugar” and garnished with berries, the cake looks striking on the table.
8 oz semisweet chocolate 8 tablespoons margarine or butter ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon almond extract 4 large eggs, separated 2 large eggs, whole 1/3 cup plus ½ cup sugar ½ cup almond flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon potato starch or confectioners’ sugar (for non-observers)
Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Place chocolate and margarine or butter in bowl and microwave on high for one minute, stirring once after 30 seconds. Coat a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick spray. Line bottom with round of parchment paper, then spray the parchment as well. Whisk chocolate mixture until smooth, then add salt and almond extract and stir until blended. Whisk the four yolks and two whole eggs with the 1/3 cup of sugar just until blended. Add yolk mixture to chocolate mixture and whisk until smooth. Stir in almond flour. In the bowl of an electric mixture, whip the four egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add the ½ cup sugar and beat until egg whites become shiny and hold their peaks, but are not too stiff. Stir one third of the beaten egg whites into the batter to lighten. Then, in two additions, gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Pour batter into pan and place in oven. Bake for 35 – 40 minutes. Cake will rise and have cracks running across it. It should feel only slightly wobbly when gently pressed. Remove from oven and let cool in pan 10 minutes before removing sides and transferring to cooling rack. Meanwhile, pulse sugar and potato starch in a spice grinder to make a powder. Sift mixture over cake and serve.
Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with a feast featuring three of Ireland’s most renowned products: Guinness, Cashel Blue cheese and McCann oats. While I have been familiar with Guinness and steel cut oats for years — I prepare the oatmeal recipe below almost every morning — I only learned of Cashel Blue these past few weeks while researching Irish cheeses. For the past month at DiBruno Brothers, the cheese mongers have been luring customers to a table showcasing five Irish cheeses: Gubbeen, Durrus, Coolea, Adrahan and Cashel Blue. I happily tested all of them, and although I must admit that I am easily pleased by any variety of a cheese, each was truly delicious. I am partial to blue cheese, however, and the Cashel was my favorite: it melts nicely, and makes a nice snack on crisp toasts, as in the recipe below, but is also wonderful on its own, at room temperature, spread onto soft bread or crackers. Happy St. Patrick’s Day!
In the late 18th century the Grubb family, members of an Anabaptist sect, fled to Ireland from England, to avoid persecution. They settled in Tipperary, a town in south-central Ireland, and became millers and buttermakers. A descendant of the family, Louis Grubb, and his wife Jane continued the dairy tradition with their creation of Cashel Blue cheese in 1984. Made from the highest quality milk taken mostly from the cows on their farm, a herd of Friesian dairy cattle, Cashel has received countless honors and awards. Creamy, tangy, salty and sweet, Cashel Blue is truly a treat.
These biscuits take only minutes to make and freeze beautifully. (Place unbaked biscuits on a cookie sheet and place in the freezer for 30 minutes, then transfer to a Ziplock bag. It may be necessary to increase baking time by 2-3 minutes.) Also, for a simple plain buttermilk biscuit, omit the cheese and herbs, increase the salt to ½ teaspoon, and increase the sugar to 2 tablespoons. For a festive treat, however, the Cashel Blue and chives are a wonderful addition.
Buttermilk Biscuits with Cashel Blue Cheese and Chives Yield = 10 biscuits
2 cups all-purpose flour 2¼ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoons sugar 8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter 3¼ oz (a scant cup) Cashel Blue cheese ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon buttermilk 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives 2 tablespoons melted butter for brushing
Preheat the oven to 400ºF. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar. Cut the butter into the flour and using a pastry cutter or fork, mix the butter and flour until the butter has broken into small bits and flakes. Crumble the blue cheese into the mixture and toss to coat. Whisk the ¾ cup buttermilk with the chives then pour mixture into flour mix. Stir just until the dough comes together to form a mass — Do not over-mix. With lightly floured hands, gently knead the dough in the bowl to bring together, adding the extra tablespoon of buttermilk if necessary, then turn out onto a lightly-floured work surface. Pat the dough into a ¾ – inch thick rectangle. Using a 2½ -inch round cutter, cut the biscuits and transfer to an ungreased baking sheet, spacing the biscuits 2-inches apart. Brush each biscuit with melted butter and transfer sheet to the oven, immediately increasing the temperature to 425ºF. Bake the biscuits for 15 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven, transfer biscuits to wire rack for 2 minutes before serving.
A nice snack: Blue Cheese Toasts Drizzled with Lavender Honey
To make the toasts, cut a baguette into ¼ – inch thick slices, place on a cookie sheet, drizzle with olive oil and bake at 400ºF for 8-10 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven, top with a generous portion of Cashel Blue and return to the oven for 3-5 minutes until melted. Meanwhile, place 1 tablespoon of lavender honey in a shallow bowl and submerge bowl into another bowl filled with hot water to help loosen the honey. When the cheese has melted, remove toasts from the oven, drizzle with honey and enjoy immediately.
Sautéed Cabbage and Radicchio with Bacon and Cashel Blue Cheese Serves 4 as a side dish
1½ oz bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 small head cabbage, halved, cored and thinly sliced kosher salt and pepper to taste 1 small head radicchio, halved, cored and thinly sliced 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 2 oz Cashel Blue cheese
Place the diced bacon in a large nonstick skillet, cover, and cook over low heat for five minutes. Remove the cover, stir and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook for another five minutes or until the bits of bacon are beginning to crisp and brown. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate. Add the cabbage, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about five minutes or until the cabbage is slightly tender. Taste to test its texture, and cook a few minutes longer if necessary. Add the radicchio, and using tongs, mix it with the cabbage. Add the balsamic and sugar and cook until the vinegar has reduced and the radicchio has wilted, about 2 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, stir in the reserved bacon bits and serve. Sprinkle the Cashel Blue evenly on individual servings.
In 1759, shortly after signing a 9,000-year lease at £35 a year, Arthur Guinness began brewing ales from St. James’s Gate Brewery in Dublin, Ireland, a site that has since become Dublin’s most popular tourist attraction. Today, Guinness is Ireland’s best selling alcoholic drink and is one of the most successful beer brands in the world. A dry stout, based on the porter style that originated in London in the early 1700s, Guinness is recognized by its thick, creamy, tan-colored head and its distinct roasted-barley flavor. A versatile beverage, Guinness complements both sweet and savory dishes as illustrated by these two recipes for Chocolate Guinness cake and Guinness-braised short ribs.
Guinness-Braised Short Ribs Serves 4
3 lb short ribs (long cut), cut into 2-inch pieces kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoon olive oil 1 leek, stem removed 1 medium onion, peeled 2 medium carrots, peeled 1 cinnamon stick 1 tablespoon tomato paste 2 11-oz bottles of Guinness 2 cups chicken stock, preferable homemade zest of one orange zest of one lemon 4-5 sprigs of thyme 1 bay leaf
Preheat the oven to 300ºF. Place a large oven-safe soup pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Season short ribs generously with salt and pepper. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to pot, let heat for a few seconds until almost smoking, then add the meat skin side down. Let brown for about five minutes, flip, and brown other side for another five minutes. Meanwhile, cut the leek into big chunks and soak in a bowl of cold water, separating the layers to make sure each is well cleaned. Roughly chop the onion and the carrot into medium-large pieces. This should yield about 3 cups leeks, and 2 cups each of carrots and onions.
When the ribs have finished browning, remove from pan and place on a plate. Drain off all fat and discard. Heat remaining tablespoon of olive oil over high heat and add the vegetables and cinnamon stick. Season with salt and pepper to taste and let cook undisturbed for 2 minutes, then stir. Let vegetables sauté for 8-10 minutes. Add the tablespoon of tomato paste and stirring to coat the vegetables. Deglaze the pan with the Guinness and the chicken stock, scraping browned bits from bottom of pan. Add the zests, thyme sprigs, bay leaf and short ribs, and bring pot to a boil. Reduce the heat so that the liquid is just simmering, cover and place in the oven. Braise for 2 hours. Remove pan from oven and test one of the short ribs. If the meat is very tender and nearly falling off the bone, the ribs are done. If not, return the pot to the oven, testing every 15 minutes until done. Remove the ribs from the liquid to a bowl or plate. Strain the braising liquid, discarding the solids. Pour liquid into tall narrow vessel and let chill in refrigerator for at least 10 minutes. Skim fat from surface and discard. Return ribs to pan, cover with liquid and bring back to a simmer. Serve immediately. Note: Can be made three days in advance.
Chocolate Guinness Cake Adapted from Nigella Lawson’s “Feast” Hyperion (2004)
1 cup Guinness 1 stick + 2 T. butter ¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 2 cups sugar ¾ cup sour cream 2 eggs 1 T. vanilla extract 2 cups all-purpose flour 2½ teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 oz cream cheese, softened 1¼ cups confectioners’ sugar ½ cup heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter a 9-inch springform pan. In a medium saucepan, heat Guinness with butter until butter is melted. Remove from heat and whisk in cocoa powder and sugar. Whisk sour cream with the eggs and vanilla, then pour into Guinness mixture and stir until smooth. Whisk together flour, baking soda and salt, then add to batter, stirring just until combined. Pour into prepared pan, and bake for 45 minutes. Test cake with a toothpick or paring knife. If utensil comes out cleanly, remove cake from oven. Let cool completely in pan. Beat cream cheese until light. Add sugar. Add cream and beat until thick. If cream cheese mix is too soft to spread onto cake, let chill for 10 minutes or until firm Spread cooled cake with cream cheese frosting.
John McCann’s Steel Cut Oats
Ireland’s fertile plains, humid climate and clean rivers have enabled it to grow high-quality oats since the fifth century. In 1800, John McCann built a mill on the east coast of Ireland in the town of Beamond, and began making steel cut oats. Several years later, in 1851, his product received two quality of excellence awards from exhibitions in London and Dublin, followed by first prize at the Philadelphia Exhibition in 1876 — an honor still proudly printed on its old-fashioned tin can. Steel cut oats are whole grain groats that have been cut into small pieces. They are an excellent source of complex carbohydrates and protein, containing twice as much protein as brown rice, and 50 percent more than bulgur. Moreover, steel cut oats are nuttier and chewier than rolled oats, and create a creamier, more flavorful oatmeal. Low in fat and a great source of cholesterol-lowering soluble fiber, steel cut oats make a delicious and nutritious breakfast.
Steel Cut Oatmeal with Medjool Date and Cinnamon Serves 1
¼ cup skim milk ¾ cups water pinch of kosher salt ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ cup steel cut oats 1 Medjool date 1 banana granola for crunch (optional)
In a medium saucepan, bring milk, water, salt and cinnamon to a boil. Reduce heat to low, add oats and stir. Gently simmer, stirring every five minutes for about 21-23 minutes. Watch closely at the end — add a splash of water or milk if oatmeal sticks to bottom of pan. While oatmeal cooks, finely dice the date and slice the banana. Place fruit in a bowl, top with the cooked oatmeal and stir to combine. The date and the banana should sweeten the oatmeal sufficiently, but add a touch of sugar, brown sugar or honey if necessary. Top with granola if desired.
At Django, a little BYO on 4th Street just north of South, the chef bakes his bread in a flowerpot. The warm pot arrives to the table along with softened butter served in an old-fashioned butter crock. Three years ago I enjoyed my first bite of this unique bread and have been meaning to test the baking method ever since. It could not be easier. Both yeast breads and quick breads bake equally well in the terra cotta vessel, but for simplicity I’ve provided a recipe for a no-knead beer bread. The dough takes no more than five minutes to mix and makes a fun presentation. Celebrate this last weekend of the Philadelphia Flower Show with a pot of this delicious bread. Enjoy!
Flowerpot Beer Bread Yield = 1 standard 4” pot
1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons sugar ½ beer or (¾ cup beer) I like Magic Hat #9 1 standard 4” diameter flowerpot (lead-free) 2 tablespoons butter
Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Crumple a small piece of aluminum foil and stuff the tiny hole at the bottom of the pot. Generously coat inside of flowerpot with nonstick cooking spray. Whisk together flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add beer, stir until combined and place in prepared pot. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 375ºF and bake for 30-35 minutes longer, or until golden brown on top. Remove from the oven and let sit for five minutes before attempting to remove from pot. Meanwhile, melt butter. After the five minutes, the bread should slide out easily from the pot. Turn out onto cooling rack and let rest five more minutes. Place loaf on a cutting board, turn upside down, and slice loaf in half vertically through the center. Holding the two halves together, make another vertical slice through the center, perpendicular to the previous slice to create 4 quarters. Return sliced bread to pot, pour hot melted butter over bread (careful, this makes a mess) and serve immediately with more softened butter. Enjoy!
This past weekend celebrators of the Chinese New Year welcomed the Year of the Pig while consuming crescent-shaped steamed dumplings. The dumplings, or jiaozi, resemble ancient Chinese gold ingots and symbolize prosperity and good fortune. By eating the jiaozi at midnight, New Year’s participants hope to transfer wealth from the previous year into the next. The dumplings are traditionally steamed or boiled, as described below, but can be prepared as potstickers as well. While the initial celebrations have ended, many days remain in this two-week long Spring Festival to enjoy these tasty treats. For a fun, simple Oscar Night hors d’oeuvre, steam the jiaozi and serve with the scallion dipping sauce. Enjoy!
¼ cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons mirin 1 tablespoon water 1 teaspoon hot chili sauce or Sriracha ½ teaspoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon sugar 1 scallion, thinly sliced
Toss the cabbage with the salt in a colander set over a bowl. Let sit 20 minutes. Meanwhile, mix pork, scallions, soy, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, egg whites and pepper. After the 20 minutes, gently squeeze the moisture out of the cabbage using a rubber spatula, then add to pork mixture. Mix thoroughly, cover with plastic wrap and chill 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce: combine all ingredients except the scallions. Store in refrigerator until ready to serve. Add the scallions just before serving.
Fill a large, wide-mouthed pot with water and bring to a boil. Lightly dust a cookie sheet with flour. Fill a small bowl with water. Lay 5 wrappers on a work surface. Keep the remaining wrappers covered with plastic wrap. Place one tablespoon of filling in the center of each wrapper. Using your fingertip moisten the edge of one wrapper with water. Fold the wrapper in half. Pinch the center and work toward the outside edges, pressing out air pockets. When dumpling is sealed, place on floured pan and cover with plastic wrap or a towel. Repeat with remaining dumplings. When all the dumplings are prepared, add 8-10 to the boiling water. Make sure none is sticking to the bottom of the pan—use a rubber spatula to release dumplings from bottom of pan if necessary. Boil for 4 minutes, check one, and cook for 1-2 minutes longer if necessary. Times will vary depending on the size of the pot and how many dumplings are being cooked at one time. Remove dumplings from water with slotted spoon or spider, and let drain and dry briefly before serving. Serve with Scallion Dipping Sauce.
Coeurs à La Crème Yield = 6 individual hearts (4 oz)
1¼ cups heavy cream ½ cup sifted confectioners’ sugar 8 ounces mascarpone cheese, softened 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier fresh strawberries
Special Equipment: cheesecloth 6 (4-oz) perforated heart-shaped coeurs à la crème molds
Cut a double-layer of cheesecloth into six 8-inch squares. Dampen and wring out lightly. Press one square into each of the heart-shaped molds and set aside. In a large bowl, whip 1 cup of the cream with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Transfer mixer to a separate bowl and store in the refrigerator. In the same bowl used to beat the cream, whip the remaining ¼ cup of cream with the mascarpone cheese, the vanilla, lemon juice and Grand Marnier until thoroughly blended. With a rubber spatula, gently fold the chilled whipped cream mixture into the mascarpone cheese mixture. Spoon the finished mixture into the prepared molds and fold the edges of the cheesecloth over the tops. Lightly tap the bottoms of the molds on the counter to remove any air spaces between the mixture and the molds. Refrigerate on a baking sheet for a minimum of 2 to 3 hours. When ready to serve, invert onto dessert plates, remove cheesecloth and serve with the fresh strawberries.
Note: Coeurs can be prepared up to 2 days in advanced.
While I wish I could boast to my New York friends to having tasted a Philadelphia pastry shop’s Red Velvet cupcake that rivals one from their beloved Magnolia Bakery or Cupcake Café, I cannot. In fact, the inspiration to make these little treats stems from the cupcake connoisseurs themselves. When a group of my New York friends came to visit last weekend, and described these as “the best cupcakes ever,” I had to test a batch for myself. Indeed, the cake is moist and rich; the cocoa flavor, distinct; and the frosting, when soft and creamy, delicious. Impressive looking yet easy to prepare, these festive cupcakes make a wonderful Valentine’s Day dessert. Enjoy!
Red Velvet Cupcakes
2¼ cups (9¾ oz) sifted flour (sifted, then measured)
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoon red food coloring (2 1-oz bottles)
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ cups sugar
1½ sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large eggs
8 oz cream cheese, softened
8 oz butter, softened
1 teapoon vanilla extract
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place liners in 12-cup cupcake pan.
2. Sift sifted flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into medium bowl. Whisk buttermilk, food coloring, vinegar, and vanilla in small bowl to blend.
3. Using electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in large bowl until well blended. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating until well blended after each addition. Beat in dry ingredients in 4 additions alternately with buttermilk mixture in 3 additions.
4. Spoon batter into cupcake liners only 2/3 or ¾ of the way full—don’t be tempted to fill them higher: they’ll bake into mushroom caps instead of nice rounded domes, and if they are filled too high, there will not be enough batter for the 24 cupcakes. Bake cakes until inserted toothpick comes out clean, about 23-26 minutes. Cool 10 minutes before removing from pan onto racks; bake remaining cupcakes; cool all completely before frosting.
Frosting: Beat butter, cream cheese and vanilla until smooth and combined. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until smooth.
For an easy yet elegant Valentine’s Day dessert try these traditional Linzer cookies. The thin, almond-packed, slightly sweet cookie perfectly balances the tart raspberry jam filling, and a light dusting of confectioners’ sugar surrounding a brilliant red interior looks striking on a plate. Bake the cookies days in advance and assemble at the last minute for a simply delicious Valentine’s Day treat.
Linzer Cookies Yield=2 Dozen
2/3 cup finely ground almonds 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour* ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup (2 sticks) softened butter ½ cup packed light brown sugar 1 large egg 1 teaspoon vanilla raspberry or strawberry jam as needed *another ½ cup of very finely ground almonds or ½ cup of all-purpose flour can be used in place of the almond flour
In a large bowl, whisk together ground almonds, flours, baking powder, kosher salt and cinnamon. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment beat the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat until combined and smooth. Add vanilla and beat till smooth. With the machine on low speed, add the dry ingredients to the bowl and beat only until just combined. Turn dough out onto a lightly-floured work surface and pat into two disks. Wrap each with plastic wrap and chill until firm, at least 2 hours.
Preheat oven to 350°F and put oven rack in middle position.
On a lightly-floured work surface roll one of the disks to approximately 1/8 – inch thick. Cut out as many heart shaped cookies as possible and transfer to an ungreased cookie sheet spaced about 1 – inch apart. Place in the oven for approximately 10-15 minutes, or until lightly brown around the edges and golden on top (closer to 15 minutes). Remove from the oven then transfer cookies to cooling racks to cool completely.
Combine all scrap dough into a ball, wrap in plastic and chill while rolling out the next batch. For this batch, cut out the same number of large heart-shaped cookies but cut out the center of each with a smaller heart. Transfer the cookies to another ungreased cookie sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes, watching more closely as these cook more quickly.
I like to bake off the little heart-shaped centers as well, but if you prefer to make more Linzer cookies, combine the centers with the scraps, chill and reroll as many as you are able. Experts might advise to only reroll the dough once because rerolling could cause the cookies to become tough. This may be true, but I find Linzer cookies to be very forgiving in regard to this issue—I reroll until I’m completely out of dough. Note: If I am rolling and cutting cookies and transferring to cookie sheets, I place filled cookie sheets in the freezer or refrigerator until the oven is free.
When the cookies have cooled completely, spread jam onto center of each solid heart-shaped cookie. Don’t spread all the way to the edge—when the cookies are topped the jam will be forced out. Using a fine meshed strainer filled with ¼ cup of confectioners’ sugar (to start), lightly dust the open-centered cookies. Add more sugar to the strainer as necessary.
Carefully sandwich the cookies together (they are very fragile and will crack if pressed too hard) and serve immediately. The cookies can be made days in advance and stored in an airtight container. The assembled cookies can also be made a day in advance but the presentation will not be as beautiful: the confectioners’ sugar gets absorbed and smudged and it is hard to re-dust without disassembling the cookies. They are still delicious, however. Enjoy!
Frog Commissary Strawberry Heart Tart Since purchasing my copy of The Frog Commissary Cookbook, a popular Philadelphia cookbook based on two legendary restaurants, I have been meaning to make its prized Strawberry Heart Tart for Valentine’s Day. At the height of The Commissary’s popularity, the restaurant allegedly sold 150 of these tarts daily and over 400 on Valentine’s Day. Indeed, the tart’s ingredients combine to make a truly perfect Valentine’s Day dessert: a hidden semi-sweet chocolate lining very nicely complements a Grand Marnier cream cheese filling, and beautiful whole strawberries make a dramatic presentation in a flaky heart-shaped shell. (Truthfully, the whole strawberries are difficult to eat—I would just as soon cut them).
Rhubarb Heart Tart with Vanilla Syrup If I had to pick between these two desserts on Valentine’s Day, however, I’d chose the rhubarb heart tart. Poached in a vanilla bean syrup, the rhubarb tastes deliciously sweet and tart, against the strongly-spiked creamy base. The rhubarb’s shiny pink surface, speckled with vanilla seeds, set atop the brilliant white filling, makes a natural and striking presentation. And with “forced rhubarb”—rhubarb that is ultimately grown in heated sheds in complete darkness—currently in season, the opportunities to enjoy its distinctive and delicate flavor are numbered. The Commissary tart can always be saved for a romantic summer evening, perhaps at the peak of strawberry season?
Each of these recipes yields enough for two heart tarts, and the pastry yields enough for six tarts. Freeze the extra portioned dough and thaw as needed. Enjoy!
Flaky Pastry Dough Yield=Six Heart Tarts
1¼ cups (6¼ oz) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus additional for the work surface ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ tablespoons sugar 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter 1½ tablespoons sour cream 3 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed
1 heart-shaped crème brûlée dish (or as many as you care to purchase)
Process flour, salt and sugar together in food processor until combined, about 5 seconds. Using a paring knife, quickly cut butter into small pieces directly into the bowl of the food processor. Pulse about 10 times until the butter is the size of large peas. In a small bowl, whisk sour cream and ice water in small bowl until combined. Add half of this mixture to the food processor and pulse 3 times. Add remaining sour cream mixture and pulse 3 more seconds. Pinch dough with fingers, and if the dough is floury and dry, add more ice water one tablespoon at a time, pulsing and testing again after each addition. (Note: the dough might not appear moist enough, so pinching is important. The dough should not be wet enough so that it balls all around the blade; it should still appear crumbly) Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface, pat into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the dough from refrigerator. Divide into 6 equal portions, each weighing approximately 2¼ oz each. On a lightly floured work surface roll each portion into a circle, as thinly as possible. Layer the rolled portions, separating each layer with parchment paper. Drape one circle over the back of the heart-shaped dish. Chill the remaining dough. Trim off any excess dough and prick the molded dough several times with a fork. Set the dish in the oven, dough side up and bake 20-25 minutes, until lightly golden and crisp. Remove from the oven and cool completely while still on the mold. Once cooled, repeat with remaining dough, making as many as desired, or freezing the additional dough.
Strawberry Heart Tart Yield=2 Heart Tarts
Cream Cheese Filling: 4 oz softened cream cheese 2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons Grand Marnier ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
In the bowl of a stand mixer cream all ingredients until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to assemble.
Simple Syrup: 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons sugar
Heat together in small sauté pan and gently simmer until thick and syrupy. Set aside to cool.
Assembly: 1 oz semisweet chocolate, chopped 1 pint of strawberries
Melt the chocolate in a small bowl set over simmering water. Set the two heart tart shells upright and divide the chocolate between the two, spreading to make a thin layer across the bottom. Stem the strawberries and trim the edge to create a flat surface. Remove the cream cheese filling and divide between the two tarts. Top with the strawberries and drizzle with the syrup. A light dusting of confectioner’s sugar is a nice touch but unnecessary. Enjoy!
Rhubarb Heart Tart: Yield=2 Heart Tarts
For the rhubarb: 2 cups sugar 2 cups water 1 vanilla bean, halved and scraped 1 lb 10 oz rhubarb, approximately (1½ lbs once trimmed of dead ends)
Place sugar, water and vanilla bean and seeds in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, trim ends off rhubarb stalks and cut stalks into 1-inch pieces. Place in a large bowl. As soon as syrup boils, pour over rhubarb, cover bowl with a plate and let sit for 1 hour. After the one hour, taste a piece. If the rhubarb is still too crunchy and tart, strain the poaching liquid back into the saucepan, bring to a boil, and pour over the rhubarb again, this time leaving the bowl uncovered. Test again, after 1 hour. This should be sufficient. Strain the rhubarb reserving the poaching liquid. Chill until ready to serve or keep at room temperature if serving within a few hours.
For the filling: 2 oz cream cheese, softened ¼ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the cream cheese until slightly lightened. Add the cream, sugar and Grand Marnier and beat until nicely mixed and slightly thickened. Do not overbeat. Store in refrigerator until ready to assemble.
For vanilla-bean syrup: 6 tablespoons of reserved poaching liquid
Place liquid in small sauté pan and reduce by half or until thick and syrupy. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
To assemble: Set the two heart tart shells upright and divide the filling evenly between the two shells. Top with the poached rhubarb. Drizzle with the vanilla bean syrup and enjoy!